Over the last days I've been trying a new skin to Eclipse:
and it's pretty nice. It did have some minor quirks, like not being able to use ctrl+page up/down to traverse the editors and some other minors, but as it's open source, I was able to add the things I was missing -- which have already been incorporated by Andrei, who is the author of the plugin (those were changed when the current release was 1.5.1, so, it'll be only available in a later release).
It's pretty nice that it keeps track of the editors that were recently closed (so, you can reopen them) and it maintains the order of the tabs when the editors are closed (a.k.a: MRU bug). Also, it uses less space for the editor name, so, you can see more opened tabs at the same time.
The colors and fonts can also be configured (for me the default colors drew too much attention to the titlebar).
The only thing I still wasn't able to figure is if the presentation can prevent detached tabs to be closed with ESC (that's something that really bothers me, because I usually leave a detached tab for the console in a separate monitor, and now and then those end up being closed accidentally with ESC) -- but the default presentation has the same issue (I'm not even sure if there's a way around that).
Update: I've just sent a patch to add an option to prevent ESC from closing detached editors :)